FABRICS USED IN MAKING THE CAFTANS
Cotton is the world's most widely used natural fibre. Durable and resistant, highly absorbent and the undisputed king of the global textile industry.
Mulmul or Muslin as it is known in Europe, is a soft and fine weave of cotton that was first made by Bengali weavers many hundred years ago. Muslin or Mulmul was established in Europe a thousand years ago mentioned in ancient Greek and Roman works. It traded as a prized import of India. The origin of the fabric is from Dhaka in Bangladesh. It is the best fabric for the harsh Indian summers. Dyed very easily it gets softer with each wash.
Made from beech tree pulp, it is a luxury fabric with its origins from Japan in the 1950’s
Linen made from the fibers of the flax plant is valued for its style, elegance and durability. It can absorb up to 20% of its weight in moisture.
Crepe is a light weight plain weave fabric with a crinkled feel. It is Versatile and stylish, this fabric can transition from day to evening wear for our caftans.
Silk is a natural protein fibre produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors.
90% of silk production is from the mulberry silk worm.
Chanderi is a traditional ethnic fabric from India characterized by its lightweight, sheer texture and fine luxurious feel. It is a blend of cotton with light silk and some zari which creates the shimmering texture.
TECHNIQUES USED IN THE FABRIC
Batik literally means wax writing. It is a method where a part of the cloth is coated in wax in a design and then dyeing the cloth. The waxed area keeps the original colour and when the wax is removed the contrast between the dyed and undyed area makes the pattern. The history of batik is traced as far as 2000 years and indigo blue which is the basic colour for batik is one of the earliest dyes.
Tie and dye
The bandhani tie and dye method is produced by gathering small portions of fabric and tying them tightly with a string and then immersing the cloth in the dye bath. The dye method is complex and unique. Depending on how elaborate the garment is, it takes weeks and months depending on the fineness of the small dots made with tiny knots. This traditional method was followed by the Khatri community from 450 years ago and was a tradition handed down through the generations in an informal training method. The intricate patterns are made out of different villages of Kutch and Rajasthan. The term bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word “Banda” which means to tie.
Itajime shibori-also called clamp shibori is a shaped-resist technique. Traditionally, the cloth is sandwiched between two pieces of wood, which are held in place tightly with a clamp. The designs are very geometrical. In India we used the clamps historically also to make stripes or separate spaces between 2 colors.
Leherias are diagonal or chevron striped patterns that are created through resist dyeing a method that is unique to the state of Rajasthan. The effect is created after multiple mud resistant and dyeing processes. This art of tie and dye is practised in Rajasthan and gets its name from the word “wave” as it produces complex wave patterns.